Typological and morphological variations from the straight
razor to the electric razor.
In 1965, another innovation made its appearance--a boxed row of cartridges, each containing a blade, which the user inserted into a plastic razor handle, gradually consuming the cartridges by replacing a used one with the next in line. This particular format was taken from an idea from the 1930s. In 1971, Gillette introduced the twin-blade razor, with two parallel blades housed within a replaceable cartridge. In 1973, the French industrialist Marcel Bich invented an especially economical plastic razor with the blade built into the head, thus making the entire unit disposable. Though it didn't represent any real conceptual novelty, this type marks the debut of the razor's most recent evolutionary phase.
Typological and morphological variations from the straight
razor to the electric razor.
The next step would be made in 1977 by the twin-blade razor with a swivelling head, even if the idea of a razor that could adjust the angle of the cut to the surface of the face had already been conceived in the late '50s.
In 1980, Philips developed an electric razor equipped with a traction and cutting system analogous to the manual twin-blade model. Subsequent efforts were directed largely toward improving the cutting edge of the blade, resulting in the following three protective coatings: chrome, which prevents corrosion; ceramic, to increase resistance; and teflon, to reduce wear. Blades then began to be manufactured from a chrome and platinum alloy so as to further increase resistance to corrosion. The most recent chapter features the Gillette Sensor razor (1990), with two blades mounted independently on remarkably sensitive springs which easily adapt to the contours of the face. The Excel version features blades mounted on five soft elastomer springtabs, which cause the skin to tighten and the facial hair to emerge.
The electric sector responded with the so-called fuzzy logic razor, which "learns" the peculiarities of each individual face, whisker type and shaving technique, memorising them to provide a completely personalised shave.
Evolution of the Braun electric razor
(from 1957) up to the latest oscillating blade models (closeup above in 1991).
From the compact form of the earliest models, the grip was extended
to house the electronic commands.
Having arrived at such intense levels of competition, in which the electric razor rivals the sensitivity of the razor activated by the "human motor", the last conceivable improvement would have to be a blade with a cutting edge so durable as to contradict the logic of the commerical principle to disposability, which requires that a given product perform well, but that it deteriorates rapidly. The survival of any species of industrial object necessitates imperfection (see Rita Levi Montalcini, Elogio dell imperfezione, Garzanti Milano 1987).
Examples of Philips
advertising.
Evolution of the Philips rotary
head
Some of
the 120 models of electric razors produced by Philips since 1939, demonstrating
the formal and functional modifications of the product. The progressive
increase in the number of heads, together with the quest for an ergonomic
grip are the key factors in determining the present form.
Advertisement
for the Philips Egg electric razor, designed in 1948 by Raymond
Loewy.
A razor for any situation. In the evolution of the manual razor tools we can find moreover some typological variations on the manual razor: a razor for prisoners with a locking mechanism for which a key is required to remove the blade; a razor without a handle than can be slipped onto one's fingertip; a wrist razor for those lacking hands; a razor for paratroopers with a hidden point that transforms it into a weapon; a razor no thicker than a credit card with a hinged blade.
Italian attempts to produce a razor blade that would challenge the Gillette empire were many, yet limited over time. An example is the "Lametta Italia", produced by the Piedmontese manufacturer ITALIA (Industria Torinese Articoli Laminati In Acciaio), which in the course of its thirty years of existence from 1923 onwards, sold half a billion units.
In 1931, Michele Savoca, a barber from Catania, distributed flyers on which he had written: "People of Catania! Do Not forget/Unless you want to wind up dead/You have no need of any blade/Those gentlemen at Gillette have made/They seem the picture of perfection/But I've heard it said they cause infection". (Quoted in: Alfonso Tozzi, "L'intuizione di Gillette", Collezionare Oggi, n.4, July-August 1992.)